you can replace the 17 power supplies with a server PSU… these should all be 12v DC input with a standard 2.1x5.5MM barrel connectors…
flip them up onto their face, with the rear facing up. if you want to get fancy you could even make a base that integrates a little wedge and rod for the power button.
get at least a 24 port switch and micro ethernet cables.
this could be cleaned up to a single row on one shelf with no visible wires other than the ethernet and power lead running up and to the back. 1 switch under the machines… 1 PSU instead of 17… even one power cord…
or a little cable management at the very least…
I didnt know about server psu so will check that out. 24 port switches are expensive, all 3 switches are far cheaper than those big switches, tho im not sure if I add more 8 port switches ill be doing daisy chaining.
you’re clients are 1gbe… you can get a brand new unmanaged 24 port gbe switch for $50/£56 a fraction of one of those machines… https://www.amazon.co.uk/Tenda-Ethernet-Internet-Splitter-TEG1024D/dp/B09DPLVLPY/ -- not to mention you can get a used managed switch for less than half that.
if £56 is going to break your bank then get some double sided velcro and clean up your mess. wish you had mentioned your obscenely limited budget…
Budget is not an issue but noise, I sleep next to those machines like between me and them is the table desk u see on the right. So looking at that large switch i think it would have fans and such that would make alot of noise
the switch I linked to is fanless.
Get some 2x2 boards, a crown stapler, and window/door screen and make 3 panels big enough to cover the exposed sides. I did that and everyone said it looked cool. And it only cost like $40 because I already had the crown stapler.
What are you running here?
AI bots that use integrated graphics
Personally I’d buy big power supply at the voltage it needs, get some board with fuses and connect all to that.
But it seems you need few more shelves and pack of zip-ties first.
10" racks
Consolidate power might not be possible 12v? Even 20amps is 4-6 computers. Just get 10" pdu’s they have 3 plugs. I know there’s 17 computers and 3 switches that’s like 7 pdu’s…
20 shelves
2x 10u 10" racks…
You’ll need to have a 10u empty to keep going for expandability.
Do you have some amazon links or pic links for those?
https://www.serverrack24.com/10-inch-12u-server-rack-with-glass-door-312x310x618mm-wxdxh.html
I don’t have USA links sorry but that’s the general gist
Have a look here for some ideas racksolutions
Serious question what is this for…
I run certain AI bots that require integrated cpu graphics to run 24/7
Looks great now.
What about a bunch of poe power splitters and a poe switch ?
Low hanging fruit: ditch the dumb switches and get a 48 port or something. Place it on the shelf above. If you’re using the two switches to ensure that you have more throughput per machine considering putting in a 10gbit uplink. Beyond that consider mounting/stacking the monitors differently and changing out the wood shelves for metal shelves for airflow. The trick is to know in which direction they dissipate heat. If they’re fanless the heat is gonna go up which will limit your ability to stack.
Get a cheap UCS or super micro server on eBay. You can get a stupid number of cores and RAM for just about nothing, then you have one box, and altogether probably a LOT less power draw
I only have a passing interest in homelab stuff, but I just wanted to say that I got really excited because I thought those were a bunch of PS2s. Thought this was gonna be some weird FFXI or Battlefront LAN system.
Well at least all do run some graphics so there is some truth close to that
Other than mounting the switch above and running the network cables up the rear there doesn’t seem to be a easy solution
The setup is fine since you’re obviously trying to be budget conscience. I’d say cable management is really what you need more than anything else.
However, if you’re handy with wood and a saw, or sheet metal and a brake (I assume you don’t have a 3d printer):
- Stack them in sets of 4. The design of those NUCs allow them to be stacked without any thermal issues, as long as the ambient air is kept low enough.
- Put the power supplies for each stack at the bottom of the stack in a 2x2 pattern (two side by side and stacked 2 high) - they should then match the footprint of each NUC
- Set up a frame to hold each stack, I’d recommend 4 posts of 1/2"x2" flat stock wood (or 18GA steel strapping), 2 running along each side with 6"x6" platforms for each stack level to hold the frame together
- For stack platforms at a minimum I recommend one at the bottom to hold your termination points (see below), one about 1" above the bottom one for the power supplies, one separating the power supplies and NUCs, and if you’re using sheet metal, one for each NUC. You can also add a cross bar at the top to use as a handle.
- For power, those DC bricks use a standard C13 connector, so I would recommend a short length 4xC13-to-1xC14 splitter so that you only have one C13 input for the entire stack of 4 NUCs (if you’re in Asia, your local electronics shop should be able to make you a few splitters for pretty cheap if they don’t already have ones kicking around)
- Both the NUCs and the DC bricks should be ziptied/string tied, or velco’ed to stack frame
- Route the single C14 input to the bottom of the stack to the termination level (will probably be about 6"
- Same for the network cables, run them down the side zip tied to frame and have them terminate at the bottom termination level. If you’re decent at terminating, or if you know someone who is fast at it, you can just crimp custom length cables for each of the 4 NUCs. Otherwise it should be 2x12" cables and 2x18" cables.
- At the bottom I personally would recommend terminating with a CAT5e/CAT6 jack rather than a plug
- Then orient your termination points so they point forward, that way all the cable hide at the back of the stack
Once you have all your NUCs in modular stacks, you can just run network cables and C13 power cords neatly along the front of the shelf, and have them input at the bottom of each stack. Then just tie your runs to each stack in a neat bundle and mount your switches to the underside of those shelves.
If you need to service a stack, you can just disconnect the stack in question at the termination points at the bottom of the stack and lift the whole assembly out, without having to play with wires. If you want to be extra fancy, you can even set up grooves or guides on the shelf to ensure the stacks are always placed in the correct position.
what is the use case for this?