Got a '14 Rav 4 with 100k miles and been using nothing my Mobile 1 0w20. Been thinking about changing brands. Heard some good stuff by Quaker State. Can anyone concur?
You must log in or register to comment.
Whatever factory recommends
Yep, that’s the best strategy. Factory intervals at with factory recommended oil. I’ve made many cars go over 200k with that.
Mobile 1 is what is put in at the factory.
Mobil 1. Used to be a valvoline guy but my motor blew up lol. Dont think brand had anything to do with it, just felt like shaking things up.
Quaker state is extremely cheap at Walmart and is a solid choice 👍🏻
Brand does not matter as much as weight does. If you’re at 100k you should probably be using 5w30 synthetic since engine clearances have grown. Also Quaker state is the cheapest and worst brand to use, you’d be better off using STP. Check out the project farm youtube if you want some results for my claims. Best of luck
Penzoil Platinum full synthetic and Fram 20k filters.
The new Toyota? 06/BS that is Toyota expensive. Otherwise synthetic 05-30 in the other three Toyotas.
5W-30 - Mobil 1, Pennzoil Platinum, Castrol Edge, Valvoline Synthetic MaxLife, don’t matter.
I’m leery of 0W-20 personally - it’s a minuscule MPG gain for Toyota to get CAFE credits but unless that car is driven “normally” - no stop & go or high speeds, it’s not as protective.
Manufacturer recommends 0w20. I dont really wanna go along with some random guy on the internet (no offense) lol
Toyota has used 0W20 for decades now and the engines and fuel mileage are still industry leading so 0W20 it is. 0 weight oils flow best cold for start up lube anyway
For the US the recommend 0W-20. In Japan, they allow up to a 10W-30, for Southeast Asia and Australia/Middle East, up to a 20W-50.
0W-20 is a fuel economy grade. It works fine for Honda - they invented it and engineered for it. Right now, Mopar and GM are having lifter issues on V8s with DoD and 0W-20.
Because GM and Mopar are shit in comparison. The lifter issues are nothing new, been a problem since 2016+ when the 5.3L first started recommending 0W20, yet they keep cranking out the same underengineered garbage. Unless you need a 2500 series pickup, those brands should be avoided.
I’ll give you that - but I’ve seen Subarus struggle to kick over on 0W-20 in Tahoe - these are new Outbacks and Foresters, not some beat on WRX or dirtbag Legacy wagon in the Heavenly parking lot.
Toyota backspeced to 0W-20 for the US/Canadian market because CAFE and there is a statement in the owner’s manual that “thicker oils provide better protection for high-speed driving or severe use.” It’s worded to avoid a brush with the EPA/CAFE - Toyota says indirectly thicker oil is OK. Severe use to me is towing, extended freeway runs(like a roadtrip” or gig work like Uber or Amazon/Doordash. The same engines in Southeast Asia, Australia/New Zealand and Middle Eastern/African nations allow for thicker oil.
The only cars I’ll feel comfortable running 0W-20 or even 0W-16 full time is a Honda and the new Toyota Dynamic Force engines that were designed to accommodate thinner oils. Honda was the first to introduce 0W-20 and they have a dire warning not to use anything except that.
Full synthetic Valvoline
I stock up on synthetic when I find a good clearance or rebate. I do not care about brand and all seem to work well with no noticeable difference. I’ve used every brand of synth available pretty much.
2012 Highlander and 2002 Tacoma.
Toyota brand. Hard to believe but, I buy cases of oil from the local Toyota dealer. Usually between 10-15% cheaper than the parts stores. I know Toyota isn’t refining their own crude but it has worked great for me!
Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 0w/20 with Wix/Napa Gold filters. -been relentless about 5k services, @45k now. -just received my first ever Blackstone Lab analysis, TBN numbers were still extremely good. Blackstone advised me to push my next service to 7500 miles.
-the oil that was sampled, was still a very light Carmel color - I feel guilty throwing away oil that still looks this good
0w20 bulk oil. Brand doesn’t matter nearly as much as how frequently it is changed.
Source: Testing shows oil still has plenty of additives left at 7000mi oci.
Pennzoil platinum HM 5w20.
Pretty much what everyone here says. The interval is very important, especially depending on the usage of that interval. Remember that (1) hour of idling equals to 27. 5 miles driven. Miles driven in temps below 34°F and above 103°F are considered heavy use and require a shorter interval. Towing or pushing to the cars Rev limit also shortens interval. My 16’ tC is my first Toyota, however all my other cars I stared doing the BG crankcase cleaning every 10k or one year after 60k and seafoam additive every other oil change after 60k. Had one 92’ Accord go to almost 317k, a 2010’ F-150 V8 that got to 227k until it got hit by a Drunk driver in a chevy Dualie and my wife’s 03 Accord still alive and kickin at 281k. My 16’ tC has just over 91k.