No. A driver drives the car. Unless it’s a self-driving car.

Spark plug normally comes with the torque information. Use that. It maybe angle tighten method. That only applies the first time it’s installed.

Just going by feeling is common too.

Is there supposed to be picture here? Isn’t there any better method to spin it than flathead? Beating on a socket for example?

How much was the current draw then?

That’s why you should measure what causes the problem rather than just replacing parts.

Electrical problem changing with the weather is really common.

1.8 amp load for a bit might be normal. The battery should be able to withstand that load for at least a day. The voltage going down within 30 seconds means the battery is bad.

Replace the battery first unless you have a power supply that you can hook up to the vehicle for diagnosing.

There was lots of steam power used in between those two and also at the same time.

Start by checking that battery terminals are properly on. Then check the battery condition and battery ground cable.

1. The brake pedal goes straight to the floor without slowing down the car.

This really wouldn’t be possible without multiple failures at the same time. So all I can think is that something happens that makes the driver think this is what happens. That really makes this diagnosing hard.

No it doesn’t. It has regular abs and stability control system where pedal going to the floor isn’t possible without a leak.

What’s on the back? There’s no information at all on the front. “Power Steering Fluid” doesn’t actually even tell what fluid it is.

Probably your fine. You used power steering fluid? What exactly was it? Maybe it’s actually ATF.

Broken sway bar link. But it being Broken like that posts to some other problems in suspension. Check all suspension parts. For example spring on the opposite side.

So I order a new fan switch and get that fitted only to find vcds still reads -47c and the fans still do not come on?

Are you sure you replaced the correct sensor? I’ve seen this multiple times. People have just replaced the wrong sensor. Sometimes also causing problems by installing the wrong sensors as some VAG sensors can fit in place of each other but are electrically different.

You calling a sensor switch points to some confusion here. A switch would just turn a fan on or off. Only a sensor would show temperature.

If you’re sure you’re replacing the correct sensor new one is bad or you have wiring problem.

I’m now thinking the radiator is blocked and maybe hot coolant isn’t getting to the fan switch location? Would this be possible?

This would not cause the problem you have. Sensor would read somewhere between outside air temperature and coolant temperature if that’s what happens.

Freeze plug is kind if a stupid name for these core plugs. Ice rarely pushes them out before destroying the engine.

It’s just pressure in cooling system that pusehes it out. It needs to be titght enough or have some other retention to hold it. Like a tap from the side. I have no experience on Jeep v8. So this is just general advice.

Mostly Mercedes I’ve worked on have been 85…2010 Or before mid 70s. And never any RHD. I do know that some are pretty badly converted to RHD.

Even after activation it’s not something like dried coating. It will go around the system. So all that extra work isn’t worth it.

Generally I really would advice against using stop leak. I have seen so many problems caused by it. Mostly on heater cores.

Is it really that hard to replace? Normally all the older vehicles have been designed to be pretty easy to work on. Obviously with everything old, it adds to the work, but still. Historical Mercedes that I have worked on heating system had the heater core under the hood with just couple of bolts.

Better tires are the only solution to this. Some tires just have M+S even though they aren’t good in winter. And I can’t tell from the picture if they are old or worn down.

Yes that’s trailing arm. But front control arm is bent a lot worse. You should also inspect other parts like rear control arm, strut, etc.