![](https://sh.itjust.works/pictrs/image/a451bc5b-7cc5-4f92-9947-fad768b8eb4f.webp)
![](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/41e39366-cb91-4d4a-bc07-a47621cb7d5f.jpeg)
*confirmed adulterer
*confirmed adulterer
Maybe we just have less tolerance for bullshit here?
I’d name it “In Communist Russia, fantasy football team name you!”
Your sister has a tiny car
With ears
Considering what it’s on: either forwards or backwards.
Living wages in exchange for work.
Yes, that fits my expectations. I believe you now.
I’m not sure I believe you, simply because that seems way too short for a German word.
If it’s not of historic significance? Modify it.
Know anyone who does metal work? Ask them to change it to something interesting.
Got a Dremel? Buff away the Nazi bits until it’s smooth metal.
There are lots of different ways to change it!
And if you know anyone who does leather work, they can remove or replace the nasty bits on the scabbard.
I think what happens next is “they explode.”
I think your bigger problem is that the watch appears to be on fire while you’re asleep.
That’s great, except it says “MOTOR MAMMUTH”
The DSi and XL are arguably the pinnacle of Nintendo’s modern engineering.
The shoulder switches are soldered to a tiny board that’s connected to a ribbon cable, so it’s actually possibly to replace just the switches.
If the ribbon cable is damaged, it’s a tiny and cheap replacement part that doesn’t require even removing the motherboard.
The power board is a discrete child board.
Button presses are handled via metal dome switches. Buttons not working? Pull the dome, clean, then replace with fresh kapton tape.
The only real negative is that two ribbon cables run through the hinge.
The earlier DSes were more of a pain to fix, and the 3DS series started to cheap out by making things harder to access, remove, and put back together.
They generally don’t need to be replaced, in fact.
But most people think they do, so the incorrect info gets spread.
It’s nobody’s fault. Most folks just don’t have any way to know unless they’ve fixed lots of systems. I’ve fixed lots of systems. :)
I used to get great deals on “faulty” Japanese DSi’s, with bad L/R being the only real problem. Then I’d fix them and share them for just the price I’d paid.
Only once was I unable to fix a bad shoulder button by cleaning it. It’s because the switch was broken off and rattling around inside the shell. 🤣
Haha, yeah, I still occasionally misalign those tiny things, even after working on lots of them! (Also I probably hate flex cables and their connectors more than you do.)
I’m really happy it worked for you. Have fun with your newly-fixed system!
Good news! I’ve fixed dozens of systems with this exact problem. It’s very straightforward and doesn’t require much disassembly.
Pull the back off, and spray contact cleaner directly into the switch (in the tiny gap around the switch’s button). Note that you’ll need to disassemble the rear shell a little to get to the switch, but you won’t need to pull the motherboard. (In the original DSI there’l be one flat connector to lift off, and in the XL there’ll be two.)
Then rapidly and gently push the button a whole bunch.
That will clear away dust or micro corrosion that’s interfering with the electric contact.
Reassemble, and it should work better. If it’s not perfect, try again.
I’ve never had a console whose button needed more than three contact cleaner applications. And that was only with buttons that completely stopped working.
Yes, other people are.
Ahh, the modem world: a person says “the potato quality,” and it’s hard to tell if it’s a meme or an autocorrect error.