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Cake day: June 24th, 2023

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  • I thought they defined persistence as literally the length of time an entity exists. There are many ways to persis under their model.

    For non biological systems, it’s about being in a energetically favorable state for the environment. For example, while many chemicals will form and break down quickly as their environment changes, with form more stable structures that persist through the shifting environments. These structures are selected for as the basis of potentially new reactions and chemicals.

    I haven’t given chemistry much thought, but the idea holds pretty well for biological systems.

    Ultimately, you’re right this is totally a thought piece. However, it’s great discussion material.





  • lostferret@lemmy.worldtoLemmy Shitpost@lemmy.worldMOM!
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    11 months ago

    Guerilla solar will not & cannot take off. Community solar, however, yes. A “power co-op” where communities / towns / neighborhoods can pool power gen, storage, and use. Forming a small grid of their own that sips from the larger grid if needed.

    Vampire devices are largely irrelevant, but always worth knowing which of your devices draws power. My 3d printer just sitting, but on, draws 10w. Off, it draws <1w or lower. My unplugged phone charger? Less than 0.1w. Is this larger than 0? Yep, is it enough to matter, no, not really. Being extremely pessimistic, we can say that all powered off devices plugged in vamp about 1w of power. At worst, my whole house would waste about 30wH. Over a day, that’s 720wH. A week is 5kwH, 20kwH/month, 241kwH a year. An average home for my homes size & area uses 12,632 kwh/year.

    Now, we put this a slightly more realistic scenario where most unused devices vamp between 0.4-0.1 (avg 0.2w), and 241kwH/yr -> 48kwH/year, or about 0.3% of my average household consumption.

    All that said, know what your devices pull. unplug or turn off the that are “big spenders” when idle. I turn off my printer and unplug TVs that rarely get used. Power strips help for things like stereo or home theater systems.


  • Thing is, if you need a car you cant afford to not have one. My options are buy a used car or a new car. Used cars are difficult to gauge reliability. And anything less than 5 years old is only ~5k under the price of a new car.

    Mf subaru people had the gall to show me 2018 forester with 20k miles on it and be like “$29,000”. For reference, a new, 2023 forester with no miles costs $31,000. Insane.

    Your choices are currently: buy a reliable used car for the MSRP of a new car and less warranty, buy a very old, unreliable used car for 2x-6x what it was worth 3 years ago, or buy a new car at or above MSRP.

    Shits fucked yo.









  • This is so true. But also range is a big issue. Charging takes 6-8 hours at home and on most chargers available. Charging faster is bad for the battery. Topping up is bad for the battery.

    So I’ve got to make SURE i know how far im traveling today and tomorrow so i can keep charged. I need to make sure i can spend enough time at a charging site.

    EVs are still limited by thier range, though it is improving. Once they hit about 400 REAL LIFE mi for a 30k car, it’ll be much better. EVs say 300 mi range.
    But you shouldnt take it below 10%, shouldnt charge above 85%. So that’s 25% gone.
    Now 225 mi range. We’re gonna be running that air conditioning, that’ll knock efficiently by, conservatively, 5%.
    Now 215 mi. The weather is often cold in the upper 50% of the US. This drops battery by another 15% in my experience.
    Now 183mi. We’re not driving on flat land, nor are we driving perfectly efficiently. Lets be generous and say that probably knocks off 5% from the total possible range determined by driving on a track.
    Now 168 miles. Lastly, we have degradation. Usually 2-5% per year, at best, then slowing. So after 2 years we’ll say we lose 7% of the total capacity (assuming we’re practicing BEST battery charging practices).
    148 mi.

    So a “300 mile” car can, under real world conditions and assuming you keep your car for kore than 2 years, healthily get about 150 miles before you should recharge it (but not right away and not drive right after because that’s bad for battery health).

    We’re getting there, but there’s a ways to go.

    It’s gonna take some improvement, bit we’re on the right track.